Contents:

Arrival and check into our Accommodation

First Impressions of Naples

Naples Cathedral (Duomo di Napoli)

Via San Gregorio Armeno – The Street of Nativity Scenes

We planned our vacation so that we would first visit sights further away from Naples and then spend the last two nights in the city before heading home. This practical approach allowed us to explore Naples’ historical and cultural treasures comfortably, without a car, after our excursions.

We rented a car for exploring the more distant locations, and it was incredibly useful—it gave us the freedom to travel without constraints. Fortunately, we had no bad experiences outside Naples. However, during the short drive within the city—to our accommodation and later to return the car at the airport—we had some rather terrible experiences. Driving in Naples is, to put it mildly, chaotic. You have to be extremely cautious. I do not recommend using a rental or personal car in the city center at all.

Arrival and Checking Into Our Accommodation

After our Vesuvius tour, we drove to our accommodation and dropped off our luggage. Once we had unloaded our suitcases, we set off with an empty car back to Capodichino Airport to return the rental. We had already decided that we wouldn’t need a car for the rest of our stay, as walking and public transport are much more convenient within the city.

From the airport, we took the ALIBUS airport transfer, which cost only €5 per ticket and dropped us off at Piazza Garibaldi. Since our accommodation was near Garibaldi Square, this was a perfect option. The journey took about 15–20 minutes.

Garibaldi Square may not be the most beautiful area, but it is the most practical place to stay when organizing trips around Naples. It is home to the central train station and all major bus stops, making it an ideal hub for transportation.

From the bus stop, a short 10-minute walk took us to our accommodation, which we had booked through Booking.com.

A Comfortable and Friendly Stay

We stayed at U259 B&B, and we were more than satisfied. The room was clean and comfortable, and breakfast was provided upon request.

The staff was incredibly helpful, offering us useful recommendations on nearby attractions and great places to eat.

Dinner at an Authentic Pizzeria

After unpacking a little, we headed to a nearby recommended restaurant, which was only 8-10 minutes away on foot.

We spent the evening at Pizzeria Trattoria Il Miracolo, where we enjoyed fantastic local dishes. The carbonara and tomato-based pasta were absolutely divine, and the price-to-quality ratio was excellent.

First Impressions of Naples

As we walked back to our accommodation after dinner, we were immediately captivated by Naples’ unique charm. The city’s Mediterranean atmosphere, bustling narrow streets, and authentic architecture left a strong first impression. You could feel history and everyday life intertwining in the air, making it clear that this was a truly special place.

Of course, not everything was idyllic. The traffic was chaotic: scooters zipped past at crazy speeds, pedestrian crossings and red lights seemed to be mere suggestions. People squeezed through the narrowest gaps with their vehicles, sometimes almost knocking over pedestrians in the process. The crowded streets, graffiti-covered walls, and general disorder were a bit overwhelming at first.

However, as time passed, we started to adapt to the rhythm of the city. While I could never completely get used to this chaotic lifestyle, after a while, it didn’t bother me as much. In fact, we even started to appreciate its uniqueness.

Getting Around with a Toddler

Navigating Naples with a stroller was challenging at times, especially on the cobblestone streets. This made us realize that the best strategy for the next day would be alternating between using the stroller and a baby carrier, depending on the terrain.

Ending a Fulfilling Day

We ended the day feeling rich in experiences, exhausted but excited for the next adventure. We couldn’t wait to dive into the heart of Naples, exploring its labyrinthine streets, artistic and architectural treasures, and delicious local cuisine.

Exploring Naples – Our Last Full Day

On the morning of our last full day in Naples, we woke up well-rested and ready for adventure. After indulging in a delicious and hearty breakfast, we set out to explore the city’s historic center. Naples is one of Europe’s oldest and most historically significant cities, once the capital of an ancient kingdom.

The locals take immense pride in their roots and heritage, preserving them in a way that makes Naples a truly unique experience. Nowhere else can you feel this atmosphere quite like here.

Even though we dedicated an entire day to exploring, it wasn’t nearly enough to see everything we had hoped for. The best way to soak in Naples’ authentic charm is on foot, so we spent the day strolling through its vibrant streets.

Walking to the Cathedral – The City Awakens

Our first destination was the renowned Naples Cathedral (Duomo di Napoli), just a 15-minute walk from our accommodation. Even in the early hours, the city was already buzzing with life: scooters weaved through the narrow streets at a dizzying speed, the aroma of fresh coffee and pastries filled the air, and locals gathered at tiny cafés, deep in conversation over a strong espresso.

We strolled along Via Tribunali, one of Naples’ most iconic and lively streets. Along the way, we passed charming boutiques, hidden chapels, and historic palaces, each telling a story of the city’s rich past and authentic character.

It didn’t take long before we reached the majestic façade of the cathedral, standing proudly before us.

The Naples Cathedral, also known as the Cathedral of Saint Januarius (Cattedrale di San Gennaro), is the city’s most important church and a key religious landmark. Located in the heart of Naples’ old town, it is dedicated to Saint Januarius (San Gennaro), the city’s patron saint.

Useful Tips:
Entry to the cathedral is free, but tickets are required to visit the treasury and chapel.
As a place of worship, appropriate attire (covering shoulders and knees) is recommended.

Stepping inside, we were immediately captivated by the cathedral’s grandiose interior and the intricate frescoes adorning its ceilings.

One of the most sacred parts of the cathedral is the Chapel of the Treasury of Saint Januarius (Cappella del Tesoro di San Gennaro), which houses the saint’s relics, including the famous blood relic. This relic is one of Naples’ most treasured religious artifacts, drawing huge crowds each year to witness the legendary “Miracle of the Blood”, when the dried blood of the saint is said to liquefy.

Beyond its religious significance, the Naples Cathedral is an architectural and cultural masterpiece—an absolute must-see when visiting the city.

After leaving the cathedral, we continued our journey through Naples’ maze-like streets, searching for more hidden treasures. Our next stop: Spaccanapoli, the street that quite literally „splits Naples in half.”

Via San Gregorio Armeno – The Street of Nativity Scenes

Returning to Via Tribunali, we turned left onto Via San Gregorio Armeno, one of Naples’ most unique pedestrian streets. Having read so much about it before our trip, we knew we had to see it for ourselves.

This is no ordinary shopping street—it’s the heart of Naples’ artisan tradition, also known as “Via dei Presepi” (The Street of Nativity Scenes). For centuries, local craftsmen have passed down their skills from generation to generation, creating meticulously handcrafted nativity figurines and miniature scenes.

The Magical World of Neapolitan Nativity Scenes

Via San Gregorio Armeno is the epicenter of Neapolitan nativity craftsmanship. Open all year round, its shops overflow with beautifully carved and hand-painted figurines, from traditional nativity characters like shepherds and angels to intricate Christmas decorations.

But what makes Neapolitan nativity scenes truly special is their modern and humorous twist. Alongside the classic religious figures, you’ll often find miniature versions of celebrities, politicians, football stars, or even movie characters, adding a playful and unexpected charm to the tradition.

The Bustling Atmosphere of the Artisan Quarter

The narrow alleyway was packed with visitors, all admiring the incredible craftsmanship of the local artisans. We were fascinated by their meticulous work and enjoyed browsing the one-of-a-kind souvenirs. Beyond nativity figures, the shops also sold Neapolitan trinkets, handcrafted decorations, and lucky charms—perfect keepsakes to take home.

This street is a must-visit for anyone wanting to experience Naples’ rich artisan traditions up close and take home a little piece of its magic.

Let’s continue our adventures in Naples – here’s what we explored next!