Lake Garda Adventures with a Toddler – Exploring Sirmione

Lake Garda is so vast that it’s nearly impossible to explore it all in one trip. That’s why we carefully planned which places we wanted to visit during our four-day stay. When putting together your itinerary—especially if you’re traveling with a toddler—it’s helpful to consider the location of your accommodation and your family’s interests.

Our Stay in Sirmione

We chose to stay in Sirmione, a charming town on a narrow peninsula, and one of the most picturesque spots on Lake Garda. Even if you don’t stay here, it’s absolutely worth a visit. The medieval castle and the famous thermal baths give the town a special ambiance, with the Scaligero Castle being its most iconic sight.

Travel and Accommodation Experience

The drive from Lecco to Sirmione took about an hour and a half. We booked our stay through booking.com and stayed at Appartamenti Altea. To our delight, it was even more beautiful in person than in the photos! The apartment was clean and spacious, with a private parking space, separate bedroom, travel cot, and high chair—everything a family with a young child could need. Our host was extremely friendly, which always adds a lovely touch to any stay.

After arriving, we quickly did our usual check of what was available in the apartment, then headed to a nearby grocery store to stock up on essentials. A quick and light dinner later, we settled in for the night, ready to start our adventures refreshed the next day.

Exploring Sirmione

After several busy days filled with long excursions, we planned a slower-paced day where we didn’t need to get in the car and could focus on just one destination. That’s how we ended up exploring the beautiful old town of Sirmione. We set off on foot to the historic centre, which is about three kilometres away—a comfortable walk that allowed us to soak in the charm of the surroundings.

A Stroll Along the Peninsula

We left after breakfast, walking at a relaxed pace. Liny sat in the stroller, but we brought the baby carrier along just in case—which turned out to be a smart move, as we did need it later in the castle. As we made our way toward the old town, we were treated to stunning views on both sides of the narrow peninsula, which stretches for about two kilometres. On the right, we could see Peschiera, Bardolino, and Monte Baldo; to the left, Desenzano and Manerba came into view. We passed local shops, hotels, restaurants, and charming residential areas. There was so much to see along the way that the half-hour walk went by quickly.

The historical centre lies at the very tip of the peninsula and is only accessible on foot. Taxis are allowed entry, but only for guests with hotel reservations. Before long, we reached the gateway to Sirmione’s old town—the entrance to the Scaliger Castle. But just before crossing the bridge, something unexpected caught our eye: boat tours departing from the little harbour in front of the castle. Besides booking on the spot, you can also find plenty of great boat tour options on platforms like Tiqets, GetYourGuide, where it’s easy to compare different routes and prices in advance.

Boat Trip Temptation

We noticed an enticing option—an approximately 25-minute motorboat tour around the peninsula. It immediately piqued our interest, as it offered a unique view of Sirmione’s highlights from the water, including the Villa of Maria Callas, the Aquaria Thermal Spa, and the Grotte di Catullo. Unfortunately, the boat had just departed, and the next tour wouldn’t leave for a while. Rather than wait, we decided we might return on another day for the noon departure. So instead, we crossed the bridge and entered the old town.

The Scaliger Castle

Our first stop was the famous Scaliger Castle. This impressive fortress was built in the 13th century under the rule of the Della Scala family. Surrounded by a wide moat, the castle offers stunning panoramic views of both the lake and the town from its tower. It is one of the best-preserved castles in Italy.

After purchasing our tickets, we explored the castle at a leisurely pace and really enjoyed it. Liny alternated between walking up the steps herself and riding in the baby carrier. We were able to leave the stroller at the ticket office. Before leaving the castle, we made use of the public restroom, which also had a baby changing station—very convenient.

Wandering the Old Town

After the castle, we wandered into Sirmione’s romantic, labyrinth-like alleyways. Liny had fallen asleep in the stroller, so we had the chance to explore peacefully. The old town’s elegant atmosphere is enhanced by luxury boutiques, cafés, and charming restaurants. During our walk, we passed by the Aquaria Thermal Spa, which is built around the same sulphur springs that the Romans once enjoyed for their healing properties. This wellness centre seems like a great choice for a relaxing retreat.

We also made it to the Grotte di Catullo, the ruins of an ancient Roman villa. During high season, a little tourist train runs up to the site, though it can get quite crowded—so if you’re visiting in summer, plan ahead to avoid the rush. We also stopped by Jamaica Beach, one of Sirmione’s most iconic beaches, before heading back to the town centre in search of lunch. By then, Liny was awake and hopped out of the stroller. We stopped by the lake a couple of times to watch the ducks and swans along the shore.

We had lunch at Bar Restaurant Scaligeri. The food was delicious, but even in winter, the place was surprisingly packed—we were lucky to find a table. Bonus points for having a baby changing station!

A Day Full of Experiences

After lunch, we headed back to our accommodation, full of wonderful impressions. Sirmione is a breathtaking, fairytale-like town that we wholeheartedly recommend to anyone visiting Lake Garda!

We got back to our apartment around 5 PM, giving us enough time to cook a nice dinner—and even save some for the next day, as we were planning another full day of exploring.